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Flavorful Kebabs, Biryani along with Much More: A Historic Indian City Secures a Place on UNESCO's Creative Cities List.

Biryani cooking using the classic Dum method
Biryani in Lucknow is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the vessel's cover tightly closed with a paste of flour.

Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.

The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.

Worldwide Recognition

Recently, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".

The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.

Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.

An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul

The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".

With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.

"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
Melt-in-the-mouth kebabs being served
Lucknow is celebrated for its incredibly tender kebabs.

A Royal Culinary Legacy

The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.

These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.

It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.

But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.

More Than Just Famous Dishes

Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).

However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.

The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.

Cloud-like dessert a winter specialty
The city offers unique seasonal delights, such as Makkhan Malai, a special cloud-like dessert, during winter months.

Time-Tested Food Joints

Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.

In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.

For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).

Famous tea stall offering masala chai
A renowned tea stall is noted for its milky masala chai.

Preserving Tradition for the Future

The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.

On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children do not want to take up the craft.

A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.

Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.

The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.

By

John Harrington

Elara Vance is a music journalist and culture critic with over a decade of experience covering the UK entertainment scene, known for her insightful interviews.

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