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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary honour.